After last weekend, I figured it would be a while before I got back to the Forks, but Mr. X shipped me an email in the middle of the week and it was ON! He was going to hang out and camp up there overnight, so we met up in the parking lot and headed off to climb.
First up, Black Rose (5.8), nice warmup, classic location, aesthetic, nice and airy over the Silver Pond. As the resident lightweight, I got the lead!
Nice view looking off up the canyon from the top of Black Rose.
Just for the heckuvit, we chucked a TR on down Heart Of Darkness (9+), to the right of Black Rose. You can lead it, but it's pretty necky getting to your first piece. Still, nice route.I didn't get any photos of Loose Lips (10+), the next route we did. The sun was pretty much straight over the route (and got into the next route photos - see below). I give it special mention here as I managed to get up it clean (following) for the first time ever! Wacky!
We rapped back down and Mr. X headed up Retard's Recess (10+), to the right of Loose Lips. I'd never even been on this one. Face climbing, to sort of easy corner, to overhanging tight corner finish.
Mr. X getting ready to move into the fun zone on Retard's Recess (10+)
You can see the crux topout of Retard's Recess just above Mr. X in the photo... good pro, hard little section of climbing.
We packed up and headed for the shade, over at The Prow Area and I led Fool's Game (9) as a bit of a break. Still kind of a heads up route in places.
Mr. X near the top of Fool's Game (9).
We debated what to do next, and settled on moving to the Gold Wall and doing a lap on East of Eden. This thing bouted me last weekend. I was hoping for a good showing today. Mr. X rappels to the base of the Gold Wall. Supercrack is the big fissure behind him.
Mr. X starts up East of Eden (10).
And about halfway up East of Eden (10).
And a little bit higher, closer shot. I got my revenge today... managed to get a clean lap on EoE in spite of a couple of hard to clean cams that nearly had me hanging.
This guy (Abel) and his girlfriend were climbing next to us on this heinous thin corner. He said a lot of it was 5.11 when we talked to him later, and that the section he aided was MUCH harder. Looked pretty hairy from where I was standing.
Last day in the northland... we went to The Overlook. This is a good choice after a couple days of trashing the arms and egos, as it has a number of three-star moderate pitches to choose from and you can climb as hard (or as easy) as you feel like that day.
This is Brian firing the first route, Ginger Bread (5.7) for a little arm wake up call. Nice climbing to a great three-sided stem box. This was the first route I ever led at The Overlook 20 years ago and it's still awesome!
I followed up with a lap up probably the best 5.7 at The Overlook, Angel's Delight. Long, airy, and classic!!! Here's a shot of Brian about halfway up.
A shot looking off down Oak Creek Canyon. The Overlook is situated at the very top of the Canyon, so you get a nice view from your seat as you belay at the top of the cliff. (photo by Brian C.)
After Angel's Delight, we did the nice combo of the two routes Everyday 5.3 and Head Cheese for a nice left-facing corner that comes in about 5.8 or so.
Me coming up the Everyday Cheese combo route.(Brian C. photo)
I figured we better do something to get the blood rushing to the tips, so I led Isaiah (5.9), THE classic of the entire crag. Looks a little low-angle from below, but it's pretty steep as it goes to the top. (Brian C. photo)
Brian working the tight crux jams of Isaiah (5.9). He did a nice job sorting this little section out. It tends to spit out the onsight crowd most of the time.
Brian milking a rest stance about 2/3rds of the way up Isaiah (5.9).
We were just about done for the day, but we finished up with a lap up Morning's Mourning, probably the best 5.8 at The Overlook (to go with the best 5.7 and best 5.9)(Brian C. photo)
Brian in the clean upper corner of Morning's Mourning (5.8). It was a nice end to a weekend of great routes. I really enjoyed it!
A shot of the main Overlook cliffline from the scenic overlook down at the end of the point overlooking Oak Creek Canyon. You can just make out a tiny climber climbing Angel's Delight in the center of the picture. (Brian C. photo)
Standard fare for summer climbing in Flagstaff. The I-17 parking lot scene. Someone's had a wreck and we're now part of miles and miles of backed up cars headed home to Phoenix. As it turned out, the delay wasn't that bad. Helped that it wasn't the usual 110+ degrees out either.
Day two in Flagstaff. Today's arena is Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pit), the limestone sport area just south of Flag. Not sure we were hitting on all the cylinders after yesterday's session at Paradise Forks, but we gave it a go. There was about a bazillion people down around the right end of the area (surrounding Son Tower). Never saw so many... conversely, the left side down around Swiss Tower (Mr. Slate, The Abyss, etc.) that usually sees the most climbers, was mostly empty all day. Go figure.
Hoofing it in to The Pit.
Brian headed up Sunshine Daydream (5.7) on Son Tower. A nice easy warmup route. We actually started the day out on Popeye (5.9), but I forgot my camera and didn't get any shots on that one.
Up higher on Sunshine Daydream.
There was a swarm on the other routes on Son Tower, but Blackboard (5.9) was open, so we grabbed a quick lap on that.
Another shot on Blackboard.
After Blackboard, the party was over and it was time to get a little more serious... Mr. Slate was up. 10b or so. Brian strapped on the rack and headed off for glory!
He didn't have much in the guns and the roof sort of stymied him, so he came back down and handed off the rack. I managed to get up and Brian took a ride on TR for the tick.
We were running short on juice, but we jumped on Sporte (5.10b). Steep route, got a good burn on that. Here's Brian heading up...
Another shot on Sporte, getting set to head into the business section.
Rapping off Sporte. That sucka is Steep!